Autumn Newsletter - Creaming It
Are you ever surprised and confused when you pick a face cream up in a shop and turn it over to check what might be in it? I know I am often a bit dismayed at the number of ingredients listed that I don't recognize. What are they? What do they do? Are all those really necessary? Do they do anything? Neither do I like the strong artificial fragrance that often hovers around once opened.
Many of these ingredients are there because they are convenient for the manufacturer. They are inexpensive and give the product an indefinite shelf life. Many manufacturers know that customers often don't read or understand the ingredient list and are content to look at the description on the front of the pack. 'Organic Lavander and Bergamot Shampoo' generally means that the Lavander is organic rather than the rest of the ingredients. And to be fair, many of the standard ingredients are so widely used that they are considered acceptable and still only questioned by a relatively few people.
On the other hand, natural ingredients such as essential oils also contain allergens which will be listed in their INCI form and may alarm you if you don't recognize them. Because of the EU laws, all allergens, natural or otherwise, must be listed if present in concentrations of 0.01% or 0.1% of the total product (depending whether it is a leave-on or wash-off product). Lavender contains, for example, linalool which is categorized as an allergen and can cause allergic reactions on some people.
So, perversely, a cream can be made from enitrely natural ingredients but still have a long list of allergens and unfamiliar INCI names on the ingredients list. You can look up ingredients on the web and get to know more about them, however be aware that there is as much mis-information as information out there - much depends on who is commenting on the ingredients. Many companies will also list the common name alongside the scientific or INCI name.
Long term fans and users of Dr. Hauschka and Neals Yard, and of our own, unofficial blends and oils, we decided to formally extend our range to face and hand creams at the Perfumery. After all, our store cupboards are already stocked with nutritious and natural base oils, top quality organic essential oils of all types and we have a good idea of what our customers (and ourselves) are looking for. For the last two years we have been blending, experimenting and learning and we now feel that we have a really simple and effective range of face, hand and body creams to suit everyone. Our products are suitable for all skin types and are gentle enough for use on sensitive skin.
Our checklist was:
- Keep it simple
- Be effective
- Ingredient quality and provenance matters
- Use all natural plant oils and ingredients
- Organic ingredients where possible and practical
- Must feel and smell good
We source our base ingredients either from very small, reputable and companies who can guarantee quality and provenance or direct from growers. Our aim is to gradually increase the percentage of organic ingredients and provide full information on provenance of sources.
I am very careful about what I put on my skin and I find that the most effective creams are the simplest. Given that the pathway through the skin is direct it seems a no brainer to me that only beneficial and functional ingredients should go into face and body care creams and lotions.
The skin is a living breathing organ and the front line in visible signs of ageing, tiredness, sickness and carelessness. In an average human adult the skin has a surface area of between 1.5 and 2 sq m. Whilst it acts as a protective barrier between the external and internal enviroment, the skin is also absorbant and an effective way to administer medicines, ointments and liquids which work their way into the blood stream. You can administer an anti-inflammatory to an aching back by rubbing a gel onto the skin rather than taking a Neurofen. A nicotine patch applied to the skin will enter into the blood stream and alleviate withdrawals.
We formulate skincare products from natural or naturally-derived ingredients. The only synthetic ingredients we use are a necessary preservative (for safety). When working with combinations of oils botanical extracts and plant extracts, there needs to be some form of preservative to avoid natural bacterias developing in the cream and being spread on the skin.
Our first batches of creams used plant extracts as preservatives. Whilst effective to a degree, we found that the creams had to be kept in the fridge or used up very quickly. Having looked at the different alternatives, we have chosen to use low doses of preservative in our creams to make sure that they have a reasonable shelf life and remain safe. It is a Parabens-free and Formaldehyde-free preservation system.
The emulsifier and stabilizer that we have chosen to use is BTMS, a highly effective yet mild cationic self-emulsifying wax. It is suitable for all types of skin including sensitive skin types. It is a quaternary ammonium compound (Behentrimonium) derived from Colza (rapeseed) oil. INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulphate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol.
Animal Testing: None of our products are tested on animals (apart from the lavender and Mint Doggy Soap which is tested on our dog Squeak whenever we feel strong enough to lift him into the bath) and our base ingredients come from suppliers who can certify likewise.
I hope that you enjoy these creams. Some of you will have tried and purchased them already over the summer and it is because of growing requests and repeat orders that we are putting them on the website to make it easier to see the full range and order.
If you have any questions or feedback please do contact me as the range will continue to evolve over the next while and your comments and requests are helpful.
